The Use of Rubies in Edwardian Antique Jewellery

The Edwardian era (1901–1910), though brief, produced some of the most refined and technically accomplished jewellery in British history. Characterised by lightness, elegance and an almost lace-like delicacy, Edwardian jewels were made possible by advances in platinum working. Within this refined aesthetic, rubies played a quietly powerful role. Their rich crimson tones provided warmth and contrast against the cool whiteness of platinum and diamonds, lending vitality to otherwise ethereal designs.

Unlike the bold, heavily set Victorian jewels that preceded them, Edwardian pieces favoured delicacy over density. Platinum allowed jewellers to create fine, intricate settings that appeared almost weightless. Against this pale framework, rubies were often used as vivid accents - carefully positioned to draw the eye without overwhelming the composition.

Ruby and Diamond: A Classic Edwardian Pairing

The most iconic Edwardian combination is undoubtedly ruby and diamond. Old cut diamonds - typically old European or old mine cuts - were used extensively during the period. Their softer sparkle complemented the saturated red of natural rubies, many of which originated from Burma (now Myanmar), renowned for producing stones with exceptional “pigeon’s blood” colour.

In rings, rubies were frequently set as central stones encircled by a halo of diamonds, creating a striking yet refined contrast. Alternatively, three-stone rings featuring a central ruby flanked by diamonds were popular, symbolising passion balanced by purity. The platinum settings allowed minimal metal to be visible, intensifying the interplay between the stones.

Cluster rings also emerged during the Edwardian period. A ruby cluster ring might feature a central oval or cushion-cut ruby surrounded by a scalloped border of diamonds, producing a floral effect in keeping with the era’s love of garland and botanical motifs.

Floral and Garland Motifs in Brooches and Pendants

Edwardian design was heavily influenced by nature, particularly garlands, wreaths and bow motifs. Rubies were often incorporated into these flowing designs as berries or blossoms. In brooches, for example, a diamond-set laurel wreath might be punctuated with small calibre-cut rubies to represent fruit, adding warmth and visual rhythm.

Pendants from the era frequently display a suspended drop design. A diamond-set openwork frame might hold a central ruby, with a pear-shaped ruby drop articulated below. This movement enhanced the stone’s natural fire in candlelight and early electric lighting.

Ruby and pearl combinations were also favoured in pendants and brooches. Natural pearls, then highly prized, offered a soft, creamy lustre that harmonised beautifully with ruby’s intensity. A typical arrangement might feature a central ruby framed by diamond-set scrolls, finished with a pearl drop, balancing vibrancy with elegance.

Necklaces and Lavalières

Edwardian necklaces were often delicate and elongated, reflecting contemporary fashion’s preference for high necklines and S-shaped silhouettes. Rubies were used sparingly but effectively within these designs. A platinum chain necklace might incorporate evenly spaced diamond-set links interspersed with small rubies, creating subtle flashes of colour along the neckline.

Lavalière necklaces - characterised by a central drop - frequently combined rubies with diamonds and pearls. A fine diamond bow motif could suspend a ruby and diamond cluster, terminating in a pear-shaped pearl. The ruby provided a focal point, while diamonds amplified its brilliance and pearls softened the overall effect.

Earrings: Movement and Light

Edwardian earrings were designed to shimmer with movement. Drop earrings, often articulated, allowed light to pass through open platinum settings. Rubies were typically paired with diamonds to maximise contrast. A common design featured a diamond-set top leading to a suspended ruby drop framed by smaller diamonds.

In some examples, rubies were cut en cabochon rather than faceted, particularly when a softer glow was desired. Cabochon rubies paired with rose-cut diamonds created a romantic, diffused sparkle suited to evening wear.

Complementary Gemstones

Although diamond was the principal companion stone, Edwardian jewellers occasionally combined rubies with sapphires or emeralds in more elaborate pieces. These combinations were carefully balanced to maintain harmony rather than excess. For instance, a brooch might feature alternating ruby and sapphire accents within a diamond garland, showcasing technical precision and refined colour contrast.

Pearls, as noted, were another favoured complement. Their understated glow enhanced the richness of ruby without competing for attention. This interplay of colour and texture exemplifies Edwardian restraint and sophistication.

Enduring Appeal

The use of rubies in Edwardian antique jewellery demonstrates a masterful understanding of proportion, colour and craftsmanship. Rather than dominating a design, rubies were integrated thoughtfully, serving as vibrant highlights within intricate platinum frameworks. Whether set in rings, pendants, brooches, necklaces or earrings, these stones brought warmth and life to an era defined by delicacy.

Today, antique ruby jewellery remains highly sought after. Its combination of exceptional materials, refined design and historical significance ensures that these pieces continue to captivate collectors and connoisseurs alike.