The Enduring Beauty of Opal in Antique and Art Deco Jewellery

Opal has long been one of the most enchanting gemstones used in antique and Art Deco jewellery. Celebrated for its ever-changing play-of-colour, opal has the rare ability to appear soft and romantic or bold and dramatic, depending on how it is cut and set. From the late Victorian era through to the height of Art Deco design, opals were chosen not only for their beauty, but also for how naturally they complemented different jewellery forms.

White and light opal are the varieties most commonly encountered in antique jewellery. With their pale, milky body colour and flashes of blue, green, pink and red, these stones were especially popular during the Victorian and Edwardian periods. Their gentle appearance worked beautifully in sentimental and romantic designs, which were highly fashionable at the time. White opals were often set in yellow or rose gold, sometimes backed with foil to enhance their colour, and paired with old-cut diamonds or seed pearls.

Rings were, and remain, one of the most popular ways to wear opal. Antique opal rings frequently feature a central oval or cushion-shaped stone, surrounded by a diamond cluster or coronet setting. These designs allowed the opal to remain the focal point while the surrounding stones added sparkle and protection. Opal rings from the late 19th century were often given as love tokens or engagement rings, reflecting the gemstone’s association with devotion and luck. Even today, antique opal rings are admired for their individuality and softness compared to more traditional diamond designs.

Black opal, far rarer and more dramatic, came into its own during the early 20th century and the Art Deco period. Its dark body tone intensifies the play-of-colour, producing vivid flashes that stand out strongly against platinum or white gold settings. In contrast to the romanticism of Victorian jewels, Art Deco black opals were used in striking, geometric designs. Rings featuring black opal centres were often paired with calibre-cut sapphires, emeralds or onyx, creating bold colour contrasts that typify the era.

Necklaces and pendants are another form of jewellery that suits opal exceptionally well. Antique opal pendants often feature a single stone in a simple claw or bezel setting, allowing light to move freely across the surface. During the Edwardian period, opals were frequently suspended beneath diamond-set bows or garlands, creating elegant drop necklaces that moved gracefully when worn. In Art Deco jewellery, opal pendants became more structured and graphic, sometimes incorporating black opal plaques or angular designs that reflected modern tastes.

Brooches were also a favoured format for opal, particularly in the late Victorian and Edwardian eras. Crescent brooches, floral sprays and scroll designs commonly incorporated multiple small opals, their colours shimmering as the piece caught the light. Opal brooches worked well because they could be made larger and more decorative without the concern of daily wear, allowing jewellers to experiment with elaborate designs. In the Art Deco period, opals appeared in bar brooches and double clips, often combined with diamonds and contrasting gemstones for maximum impact.

Earrings, though less commonly set with opal in early antique jewellery, became more popular as styles evolved. Drop earrings with opal terminals were particularly fashionable in the Edwardian era, offering movement and subtle colour. Art Deco opal earrings, by contrast, tend to be bolder, with strong lines and striking contrasts.

Across rings, necklaces, brooches and earrings, opal proved to be a remarkably versatile gemstone. Its unique beauty allowed it to adapt seamlessly to changing fashions, ensuring its enduring appeal. Antique opal jewellery continues to captivate collectors today, offering a combination of history, craftsmanship and natural wonder that few gemstones can rival.

You can find our full collection of antique opal jewellery here. If you have any questions feel free to get in touch on England: 0333 700 4500 or via email at enquiries@antiquejewellerygroup.com.