The Symbolism of Sapphires in Antique Jewellery: From Georgian Devotion to Edwardian Elegance

Sapphires have long held a special place in the world of fine jewellery, admired not only for their rich blue hues but also for their deep symbolic meaning. In antique jewellery, sapphires carried messages of loyalty, wisdom and divine favour, shaped by the cultural values and technological capabilities of their time. From the handcrafted intimacy of the Georgian era to the refined brilliance of the Edwardian period, sapphires tell a story that is both historical and enduring.

Georgian Era (1714–1837): Spirituality, Status and Sentiment

During the Georgian period, sapphires were closely associated with virtue, truth and protection. Their deep blue colour was thought to symbolise heaven and spiritual insight, making them especially popular in religious and sentimental jewellery. Sapphires frequently appeared in rings, brooches and memorial pieces, often surrounded by diamonds set in silver-topped gold to enhance contrast and candlelight sparkle.

Technologically, Georgian jewellery was entirely hand crafted. Stones were cut by hand, most commonly into table or rose cuts, which limited brilliance but enhanced depth of colour. Sapphires were often closed-back set, with foil placed behind the stone to intensify its hue. While this restricted elaborate openwork designs, it lent Georgian sapphire jewellery an intimate, almost mystical quality. Each piece was unique, reflecting both the skill of the goldsmith and the personal symbolism attached to the gem.

Victorian Era (1837–1901): Meaning, Mourning and Mechanical Progress

The Victorian era brought a profound shift in how sapphires were worn and understood. Under Queen Victoria’s influence, jewellery became deeply sentimental. Sapphires symbolised fidelity, sincerity and enduring love, making them popular in engagement rings and sweetheart jewellery. They were also used in mourning jewellery, where their sombre beauty conveyed remembrance and devotion.

Crucially, the Victorian period saw major technological advances that transformed sapphire jewellery. The Industrial Revolution introduced precision tools, steam-powered machinery and improved gemstone cutting techniques. The development of the brilliant and oval cuts allowed sapphires to display greater fire and sparkle than ever before. Open-back settings became more common, enabling light to pass through stones and dramatically enhancing their appearance.

Gold discoveries in Australia and South Africa made gold more accessible, while electroplating and advances in alloys expanded design possibilities. As a result, sapphire jewellery became more varied and elaborate, ranging from bold cluster rings to intricate necklaces and tiaras that combined sapphires with diamonds and pearls.

Edwardian Era (1901–1914): Elegance, Lightness and Luxury

The Edwardian period is often considered the pinnacle of refinement in antique jewellery. Sapphires during this time symbolised nobility, grace and everlasting love, often worn by aristocracy and society’s elite. Their association with royalty was reinforced by the era’s fascination with luxury and formal elegance.

Technological innovation reached new heights with the widespread use of platinum, a strong yet lightweight metal that allowed for delicate, lace-like designs previously impossible. Advanced gemstone cutting and setting techniques meant sapphires could be perfectly calibrated and seamlessly integrated into intricate compositions. Calibré-cut sapphires were often used to outline motifs or create striking colour contrast alongside old-cut diamonds.

Electric lighting, replacing candlelight, also influenced jewellery design. Pieces were now crafted to sparkle under brighter, whiter light, showcasing the clarity and brilliance of sapphires with exceptional sophistication.

A Legacy of Beauty and Value

Antique sapphire jewellery is far more than adornment. Each piece reflects the symbolism, craftsmanship and technological progress of its era, making it a tangible link to the past. Today, sapphire antique jewellery represents an investment not only in enduring financial value but also in history, artistry and meaning. To own such a piece is to preserve a story - one that continues to shine as brilliantly as the sapphire itself.