A Guide to Gemstone Cuts

Gemstones come in a tremendous variety of shapes which have been refined by skilled lapidaries (gemstone cutters) over centuries. Each has their own particular charm and history, and many were developed to suit very particular types of gems. Click on the sections below to read more about the various gemstone cuts and their uses in antique jewellery.
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The facts


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The facts


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The facts


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The facts

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BRILLIANT

The brilliant cut was developed in the 18th century, and has since become the most common form of cut for diamonds. The large number of facets help to refract light throughout the stone and maximise the stone's scintillation.

The facts

Brilliant cuts contain 56 facets, not counting the table and culet, making them extraordinarily difficult to cut by hand. Modern brilliant cuts are achieved with computers and specialist machinery. Older examples represent the hand-crafted efforts of truly talented lapidaries.

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BRIOLETTE

The briolette creates a full three-dimensional teardrop shape which is almost organic, despite being comprised of precise angular facets.

The facts

Briolettes form wonderful droppers for pendants, earrings and necklaces, and display a magnificent shine whenever the wearer moves.

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CABOCHON

With a smooth, domed face and flat back, the cabochon lacks the hard edges and planes of all other cuts.

The facts

Cabochon cuts are excellent for displaying the inner fire and iridescence of stones such as opals, moonstones and the extremely rare star sapphire.

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CUSHION

Also known as the "mine cut" the cushion cut is made up of 64 facets, a greater number than the more prevalent brilliant cut.

The facts

The added sparkle provided by the cushion cut's extra facets make it ideally suited to the most precious of gems, including diamonds, rubies and sapphires.

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HEART

Cut and polished in the easily recognisable shape of a heart, these stones are an easily identifiable symbol of love and devotion.

The facts

The myriad facets that allow heart cut stones to assume their shape result in extraordinary plays of light unlike any other cut.

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MARQUIS

The marquis cut, also known as the navette or "boat shaped" cut is extremely popular in french jewellery.

The facts

Tapered toward each end with smooth flowing curves between, the marquis cut featured prominently in european court jewellery.

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OLD

The forerunner of the modern brilliant cut, the old cut was sometimes known as the old european cut.

The facts

With larger and less numerous facets than a brilliant cut, the old cut was made to allow the stone to sparkle under candlelight, creating a dancing display of light.

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OVAL

An elongated variant of the brilliant cut, the oval cut provides a slimmer profile and more complex pattern in its plays of light.

The facts

Often arranged in rings with the longer sides running along the finger, these stones create a slimmer, more delicate profile.

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PRINCESS

Also known as the "square modified brilliant cut" the princess cut creates a dazzling display with an angular appearance when viewed from above.

The facts

Princess cut is a newer name for an array of similar square cuts found throughout many pieces. Although the modern princess is a single stone the label applies to many precursor cuts.

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ROSE

Favoured in the Georgian era before being superseded by more elaborate cuts, the rose cut is an important piece of lapidary history.

The facts

With a distinctive charm, the rose cut is almost completely confined to antique jewellery, and such pieces have been crafted to show them off to their greatest appeal.

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PEAR

The pear cut, also known as the teardrop cut, creates the stylised form of a droplet frozen in precious stone.

The facts

Used extensively in droppers for earrings and pendant, these wondrous cuts sparkle beautifully when worn.

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STEPPED

Also known as the "emerald cut" this pattern consists of long, straight edges and stark angled facets.

The facts

The step or stepped cut was created to protect brittle, easily damaged stones such as emeralds from wear and tear.

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